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Wind & Swell Introduction
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This publication has been compiled
specifically for those readers who want to forecast wind and
swell activity on their local coastline, or anywhere in the
world, with the aid of the common weather chart.
The reader will benefit by
learning a simplified perspective of the link between weather
events and oceanic conditions, providing a definite advantage
over the treacherous nature of the world’s oceans. The
reader will also benefit by viewing a global almanac of wind
and swell activity at their leisure, as it provides itchy feet
with the basic tools needed for seasonal travel planning.
If the ocean is boiling with
swell, there is a reason for it, and you will find it
illustrated on a weather chart. If the ocean is calm and
placid, it’s all there on the weather chart. All that is
required is a basic understanding of global weather and the
common weather chart, which is surprisingly simple to learn.
The information ocean
addicts need to make a daily forecast, is initially built from
air pressure activity. This activity reveals the typical wind
and swell potential to the trained eye, which can be easily
recognised on a Barometric chart that consists of a landmass
outline overlaid with lots of wiggly lines. These charts map
the winds that envelop the earth, and these winds (horizontal
and vertical) are responsible for all weather related ocean
swell activity.
The information needed to
make longer forecasts is built from an understanding of the
typical surface elements that seasonally interact with global
scale activity which is generally excluded from local scale
weather charts. Therefore, a sound global understanding is
necessary for longer forecasts, because local weather is only a
small part of the global circulation.
The global circulation
consists of low pressure wind belts that circle the earth,
motivated by kinetic energy derived from the earth’s
rotation and the solar heat that pounds the tropics daily,
resulting in an easterly flow in the tropics and a westerly
flow nearer the poles. The global circulation is a reliable
link to future conditions because it contains the weather that
occurs outside the boundaries of the local scale weather chart
which is often the most crucial to forecasting future events.
These wind belts are an
integral part of the development of the two main weather cells
known as the High and Low pressure systems which in turn are
responsible for the conditions we face on a daily basis. You
will see your local weather chart in a different light once you
understand the global connections that expose the patterns of
cyclonic development.
Weather charts were
originally developed to assist a flourishing maritime and
aviation boom during the twentieth century to help ensure a
safe arrival to most destinations, for most vessels. The
weather chart soon became available to the public via
newspapers and television, and now with the computer age
accelerating, a global focus is evolving to satisfy a growing
number of enthusiasts.
The global focus provides
instant information that opens up a world of opportunities for
the average ocean addict, which would not otherwise be possible
without global participation.
Fortunately most societies
of the world follow a universal approach to gathering and
sharing their weather information, which has allowed for the
development of global scale weather charts. Unfortunately, the
most widely available and most underutilised public information
of the century (the weather chart) remains poorly understood by
the majority.
This book will eventually
change this sorry state of affairs as it provides the ocean
addict with a simple, straight forward global perspective of
wind and swell, without the over technical jargon that deters
most from wanting to know more. The humble weather chart is a
gold mine of information for those who know what their looking
at, and it provides the user with knowledge and confidence to
successfully plan ahead. Those who don’t know much about
it usually rely on second hand information like user pay
systems or public media/internet forecasts that can become
complacent with vital information, expensive, unreliable or
bias over time.
Those who relied on public
media forecasts in the 1998 Australian Sydney to Hobart Yacht
Race were expecting a southerly wind change, something they had
experienced many times in the past. However, they seriously
under estimated the potential for Hybrid cyclone development
during a “La Niña” period which was
prevalent at the time. While surfers along the south east coast
of Australia were revelling in solid waves and off shore winds,
six sailors were about to unwittingly lose their lives.
The weather chart is our
only solid link to what’s going on in the ocean and the
atmosphere. Without this modern technology, we would be limited
to what we can see on the horizon. It’s surprising to see
that so many “professional” ocean addicts know so
little about the weather and its range of probabilities, when
only the information relating to wind and swell production is
required, which is the primary focus of this book.
It also focuses on the
essential information required for the reader to make informed
decisions based on a simple understanding of the global weather
cycles. This is necessary to form the basis for confident
forecasts and to seasonally plan ahead, anywhere on the globe.
In the first chapter we take
a crash course in Meteorology and a brief look at the preferred
weather charts and selected terminology. This section provides
a basic understanding of the Barometric chart and an insight
into the daily forecasting of wind and swell, which can be
utilised immediately.
Chapter two, The Engine Room
details the natural forces at work that combine to create the
weather in our atmosphere. We look at how and why cyclones
develop, and define their cog like movements as part of the
global circulation.
Chapter three, The Big
Picture looks at when and where cyclones develop, and shows how
the relationship between the earth and sun sets up the four
seasons of the year, the monsoons and the patterns of cyclonic
developments.
Chapter four, The Ocean
Addicts Almanac brings the patterns of cyclonic developments to
life revealing the normal sequence of cyclonic events during
the average year while providing a handy guide to the recipient
coastlines of wind and swell. This section conveniently doubles
as a unique calendar to assist with seasonal travel planning.
Finally, in Conclusion we
briefly summarise the facts at hand and review the intricacies
involved in forecasting over the long term outlook. We will
also consider the consequences of the El Niño disruption
and other impacts on forecasting procedure.
All diagrams are purely
conceptual and not necessarily drawn to scale. Any puns are not
intended, however repetition of facts is intentional for the
sake of the learning process. In the interests of keeping
things simple, the information in this book is general but all
encompassing and thoroughly tested to the best of my ability.
Some terminology has been simplified so it can be utilised by
all classes of ocean addict.
Wind and swell mean
different things to different addicts. Surfers like solid waves
with off shore winds and like to position themselves amongst
menacing cyclones. Fisho’s like a variety of conditions
that attract different types of fish. Wind Junkies like clear
windy conditions and your average boating enthusiast prefers
still, sunny conditions.
All of these favoured
conditions are dependent upon the seasonal position of the sun
and the global circulation which in turn helps to determine the
movement of ocean current influences and the development and
position of the pressure cells. The basis for accurate
anticipation of the weather at work is in understanding the
kinetic behaviour of these cycles, and their affect on the
wider environment, all of which is visible to the trained eye
on a basic weather chart.
A simple analogy is set out
here before you so avoid years of research, fast track your
knowledge of this addiction and go straight to the source, the
weather chart!
© 2007 Boarding Essentials, Design by Starfish
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