Wind & Swell Introduction


This publication has been compiled specifically for those readers who want to forecast wind and swell activity on their local coastline, or anywhere in the world, with the aid of the common weather chart.

The reader will benefit by learning a simplified perspective of the link between weather events and oceanic conditions, providing a definite advantage over the treacherous nature of the world's oceans. The reader will also benefit by viewing a global almanac of wind and swell activity at their leisure, as it provides itchy feet with the basic tools needed for seasonal travel planning.

If the ocean is boiling with swell, there is a reason for it, and you will find it illustrated on a weather chart. If the ocean is calm and placid, it's all there on the weather chart. All that is required is a basic understanding of global weather and the common weather chart, which is surprisingly simple to learn.

The information ocean addicts need to make a daily forecast, is initially built from air pressure activity. This activity reveals the typical wind and swell potential to the trained eye, which can be easily recognised on a Barometric chart that consists of a landmass outline overlaid with lots of wiggly lines. These charts map the winds that envelop the earth, and these winds (horizontal and vertical) are responsible for all weather related ocean swell activity.

The information needed to make longer forecasts is built from an understanding of the typical surface elements that seasonally interact with global scale activity which is generally excluded from local scale weather charts. Therefore, a sound global understanding is necessary for longer forecasts, because local weather is only a small part of the global circulation.

The global circulation consists of low pressure wind belts that circle the earth, motivated by kinetic energy derived from the earth's rotation and the solar heat that pounds the tropics daily, resulting in an easterly flow in the tropics and a westerly flow nearer the poles. The global circulation is a reliable link to future conditions because it contains the weather that occurs outside the boundaries of the local scale weather chart which is often the most crucial to forecasting future events.

These wind belts are an integral part of the development of the two main weather cells known as the High and Low pressure systems which in turn are responsible for the conditions we face on a daily basis. You will see your local weather chart in a different light once you understand the global connections that expose the patterns of cyclonic development.

Weather charts were originally developed to assist a flourishing maritime and aviation boom during the twentieth century to help ensure a safe arrival to most destinations, for most vessels. The weather chart soon became available to the public via newspapers and television, and now with the computer age accelerating, a global focus is evolving to satisfy a growing number of enthusiasts.

The global focus provides instant information that opens up a world of opportunities for the average ocean addict, which would not otherwise be possible without global participation.

Fortunately most societies of the world follow a universal approach to gathering and sharing their weather information, which has allowed for the development of global scale weather charts. Unfortunately, the most widely available and most underutilised public information of the century (the weather chart) remains poorly understood by the majority.

This book will eventually change this sorry state of affairs as it provides the ocean addict with a simple, straight forward global perspective of wind and swell, without the over technical jargon that deters most from wanting to know more. The humble weather chart is a gold mine of information for those who know what their looking at, and it provides the user with knowledge and confidence to successfully plan ahead. Those who don't know much about it usually rely on second hand information like user pay systems or public media/internet forecasts that can become complacent with vital information, expensive, unreliable or bias over time.

Those who relied on public media forecasts in the 1998 Australian Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race were expecting a southerly wind change, something they had experienced many times in the past. However, they seriously under estimated the potential for Hybrid cyclone development during a "La Niña" period which was prevalent at the time. While surfers along the south east coast of Australia were revelling in solid waves and off shore winds, six sailors were about to unwittingly lose their lives.

The weather chart is our only solid link to what's going on in the ocean and the atmosphere. Without this modern technology, we would be limited to what we can see on the horizon. It's surprising to see that so many "professional" ocean addicts know so little about the weather and its range of probabilities, when only the information relating to wind and swell production is required, which is the primary focus of this book.

It also focuses on the essential information required for the reader to make informed decisions based on a simple understanding of the global weather cycles. This is necessary to form the basis for confident forecasts and to seasonally plan ahead, anywhere on the globe.

In the first chapter we take a crash course in Meteorology and a brief look at the preferred weather charts and selected terminology. This section provides a basic understanding of the Barometric chart and an insight into the daily forecasting of wind and swell, which can be utilised immediately.

Chapter two, The Engine Room details the natural forces at work that combine to create the weather in our atmosphere. We look at how and why cyclones develop, and define their cog like movements as part of the global circulation.

Chapter three, The Big Picture looks at when and where cyclones develop, and shows how the relationship between the earth and sun sets up the four seasons of the year, the monsoons and the patterns of cyclonic developments.

Chapter four, The Ocean Addicts Almanac brings the patterns of cyclonic developments to life revealing the normal sequence of cyclonic events during the average year while providing a handy guide to the recipient coastlines of wind and swell. This section conveniently doubles as a unique calendar to assist with seasonal travel planning.

Finally, in Conclusion we briefly summarise the facts at hand and review the intricacies involved in forecasting over the long term outlook. We will also consider the consequences of the El Niño disruption and other impacts on forecasting procedure.

All diagrams are purely conceptual and not necessarily drawn to scale. Any puns are not intended, however repetition of facts is intentional for the sake of the learning process. In the interests of keeping things simple, the information in this book is general but all encompassing and thoroughly tested to the best of my ability. Some terminology has been simplified so it can be utilised by all classes of ocean addict.

Wind and swell mean different things to different addicts. Surfers like solid waves with off shore winds and like to position themselves amongst menacing cyclones. Fisho's like a variety of conditions that attract different types of fish. Wind Junkies like clear windy conditions and your average boating enthusiast prefers still, sunny conditions.

All of these favoured conditions are dependent upon the seasonal position of the sun and the global circulation which in turn helps to determine the movement of ocean current influences and the development and position of the pressure cells. The basis for accurate anticipation of the weather at work is in understanding the kinetic behaviour of these cycles, and their affect on the wider environment, all of which is visible to the trained eye on a basic weather chart.

A simple analogy is set out here before you so avoid years of research, fast track your knowledge of this addiction and go straight to the source, the weather chart!

© 2009 Boarding Essentials